The way to Paint Over Epoxy Painted Floors
Epoxy paint usually comes in an two-part system, and when the parts are mixed, the result would be a hard, smooth finish acceptable for garages and other high-traffic places. The smoothness and durability of epoxy are drawbacks once the time comes for recoating, however, and it isn’t unusual for the new paint to flake or peel after it dries. You can avoid this by screening the epoxy surface with a floor buffer and sanding screen, then priming the epoxy and then coating it with more epoxy or polyurethane.
Sweep the floor, then mop it with a solution of 1 cup trisodium phosphate to 1 gallon warm water. Scrub out stubborn grease or oil marks with a scrub brush and a ground degreaser; paint won’t adhere to the marks. Mop the floor again with clear water and let it dry.
Don a dust mask. Display the ground with a floor buffer and a 100-grit sanding screen. Run the buffer over the entire ground, then vacuum the dust and then wipe the floor with a damp rag.
Prime the ground with epoxy primer. Expand the primer with a paintbrush or roller, working toward the door. The primer adheres to the old finish better than paint and in turn, provides better adhesion for the topcoat. It isn’t important to spread it streak-free, but guarantee that the entire ground is covered.
Scatter one thin coat of epoxy or polyurethane paint. Latex or acrylic paint aren’t recommended, and might peel or chip after a brief time. Cut in the borders of the floor with a paintbrush, then roll the majority of the ground with a thin-nap roller as if you were painting a wall.
Let the paint dry, then recoat twice, spreading the paint in thin layers. The paint dries more evenly and adheres better if you apply it in thin coats. Let the last coat cure for 48 to 72 hours before you walk on it.